Punch magazine

BITTER BEER AND SOUR WINE.

In an article on the vinous element of the Treaty with France, our contemporary the Morning Post, makes the following remarks with reference to bitter beer:-

“None of the English brewers of Paris – and we need scarcely say none of the native brewers – have hitherto succeeded in producing anything faintly resembling this excellent beverage, and we look forward, and not distantly, to the day when ‘Bass’ and ‘Alsopp’ will be much more extensively consumed in Paris and the beer-drinking departments of France than any native beverage. These departments chiefly are the Seine, Aiane, Nord, Pas de Calais, and Somme. We need not say, that every one of these departments may be reached by water communication.”

It is very possible that none of the native French brewers, have succeeded in producing anything faintly resembling bitter beer. The former would be obliged, and the latter would be naturally disposed, to endeavour to make their beer by brewing. This is not the way to produce bitter ale, such bitter ale as is commonly retailed. No doubt M. le Pharmacien would encounter none of the difficulty in preparing the so-called fluid which Messrs. les Bresseurs experience in attempting to brew it. The French apothecaries are not less skilful than our own, and any respectable British chemist and druggist, could, out of his materia medica, easily compose a draught possessing the bitterness, the smell, and the stupefactive power, which constitute the sole recommendations of that beverage. Of course there is no disputing about tastes; every man to his quassia, or gentian, or chamomile, who prefers physic to malt liquor; but a mash-tub is not the proper vessel to mix medicines in; nor are the combinations of pharmacy to be obtained by the process of fermentation.

A bitter infusion, which will keep, is preferred by most people, and by all publicans, to beer that very soon turns sour and nasty. Few publicans and beer-sellers keep any other than that bad sort of beer, if they keep any beer at all; but not a few keep only the bitter infusion which usurps its place and name. Hence at many hotels there is nothing else to be had. Any port in a storm; any port also rather than no wine; any apology for beer rather than no beer whatever. Bitter beer is the consumer’s only resource, and therefore it is popular. Stingo is almost obsolete: good swipes are to be had nowhere. Hobson’s choice is called universal suffrage.

If the French will take our bitter beer, and give us their sour wine in return, the exchange will certainly be no robbery to us. The Budget will doubtless benefit us there. Good ale will have to be brewed once again, to complete with claret, which is at least better than the common run of ale. If our neighbours are equally satisfied with their bargain, well and good; but if those departments of France which, as the Post says, may be reached by water communication, would stick to that communication medium, however salt, they would act like better judges than they will show themselves to be in drinking a kind of waters of bitterness, which at best are no better than water spoiled.

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